By Claire B. Shaeffer
Claire Shaeffer's cloth stitching Guide is your one-stop stitching source, with solutions to the most typical stitching questions and information about the most recent developments in stitching. This new, completely up-to-date version includes every thing you want to understand, and may without doubt be a reference you'll overview repeatedly. as well as an intensive word list with solutions to the commonest stitching questions, this must-have advisor contains easy-to-read charts for needle sizes and thread and stabilizer kinds. it is usually 225 full-color pictures and a cloth and fiber dictionary. really a one-stop reference while searching for solutions.
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Additional resources for Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide (2nd Edition)
Cotton is stronger wet than dry. • It has little elasticity and resiliency, and it wrinkles easily. • Cotton fabrics frequently shrink. • The fabric weakens and deteriorates when exposed to extended periods of sunlight. • It soils easily. • Compared to flax, another cellulosic fiber, cotton is weaker. Compared to rayon, it is stronger. • Mercerized cottons are stronger and more lustrous than unmercerized cottons. • Cotton can be laundered or dry-cleaned, depending on the dyes, finish, fabric structure, and garment design.
Linen frays badly. It shrinks. It does not ease well. Linen looks shiny when pressed on the right side without a press cloth. Seam slippage is a frequent problem. The fabric loses some crispness when laundered. Loosely woven fabrics cannot withstand laundering, even though the fiber is washable. Linen wrinkles badly, even when treated with a crease-resistant finish. It is lint-free, sheds surface dirt, and it is stronger when wet. It has good moisture absorbency and is comfortable to wear. Linen dries quickly.
For dressier designs, topstitch close to the seamline. For sportswear, topstitch ¼" away from the seamline or use a wide twin needle to simulate flat-fell seams. Use topstitched machine hems. 8/1/08 10:25:49 AM 44 part t wo: fiber content Eliminate seam and hem finishes in lined garments that will be dry-cleaned. Hint To avoid fraying at the corners of bound Topstitching buttonholes, I fuse a small oval of lightweight Lengthen the stitch setting to 3–4 mm (12-15 stitches per inch). Use a topstitching needle that has a deeper groove.